94 Decanter

Jason Miller "This is undoubtedly southern stuff: rugged, less straightforward, always moving slightly out of focus, elusive but engaging. Sometimes we write that a wine tastes of lemons because it tastes vaguely like our idea of a lemon, but COS Pithos tastes more like a real, properly ripe southern Italian lemon – leaf attached, ridged and heavy, concealing its thick white inner pith. It unfurls flavours of ripe quince and bitter chicory with the barky, almost medicinal drag of quinine on the palate. It’s clean but wild, primal even; the sort of thing that may cause hesitation as you wonder if this is really what wine should taste like when you’ve only ever had screwcapped Pinot Grigio. The variety in question, known here as Grecanico, is none other than Soave Classico’s Garganega – but there is no way you could tell.” 10.5%

97 Monica Larner - Robert Parker's Wine Advocate

The most impressive aspect of the Castello della Sala ethos is its ability to reinvent itself. This latest edition of Umbria's headline white is a true delight. Renzo Cotarella and his team have created an Italian masterpiece that is reminiscent of the great whites of Burgundy. The 2023 Cervaro della Sala opens to an elegantly reductive note of flint or crushed granite before sliding gracefully into silky fruit sensations, breakfast pastry and crème fraîche. It offers carefully balanced richness and textural importance. Winemaking is moving away from 500-liter barrels to embrace larger foudre. No bâtonnage is implemented. The wine is mostly Chardonnay, with a smaller part (between 5% and 10%, depending on the vintage) of Grechetto that has been further reduced in order to avoid any rustic tones from the Italian grape. Part of the Chardonnay does malolactic fermentation, but the Grechetto does not. This gives energy and verve to the final results. Castello della Sala has recently planted more Chardonnay (now totaling 80 hectares) for flexibility in choosing the best clusters. Throughout its many reinventions, this is the best Cervaro della Sala I have tasted.

16 Jancis Robinson's Purple Pages

Quite firm bitter-cherry impression but with good life and bite. Not a centrepiece wine but a very creditable red 2023. GV (JR)

91 James Suckling - Jamessuckling.com

Balanced and juicy, showing red cherries, dried meat and baking spices. Medium-bodied, bright and berry-loaded with velvety tannins and mouthfeel. Peppery, flavorful finish. Sustainable. Drink now. Screw cap.

92 Wine Enthusiast

The Chalmers family nursery is responsible for importing, growing and selling hundreds of Italian grape varieties across Aus. This Sagrantino-led blend of just a handful of those varieties offers supple red cherry, cranberry, floral and peppery-spice aromas to start. The sanity palate is midweight with lovely tang and cat's tongue tannins that rein in the riot of red-berry fruit. Yum. — Christina Pickard

89 James Suckling - Jamessuckling.com

A skittish blend from the nursery block, or Mother Block as it is called. This is the source, as the back label proudly proclaims, 'of millions of vines planted across Australia.' Sagrantino, nero d'avola, aglianico, piedirosso and other varieties that are righteous and intuitive in these parts. This is so much fun! Reminiscent of the vino da tavola that you rave about after a vacation somewhere in bella Italia. Only made far better! Juicy. Red and orange pastille, sour cherry and a lineage of dried herb from attack to the edgy finish, perfect for mopping sauce. Drink now.

94 Aldo Fiordelli - Senior Editor - JamesSuckling.com

"Subtle complexity with bright, elegant strawberries, lemon zest, light toast and chalky depth. No leafy aromas. Tight and intense long bubbles with racy acidity and a polished, filigreed finish. Disgorged December 2024. Drink or hold."

90 James Suckling - Jamessuckling.com

"This juicy red has aromas of baked cherries, vanilla, orange peel and grilled herbs. It’s medium-bodied with medium tannins and a fruity, lightly jammy character. Drink now." - Claire Nesbitt

89 Eric Guido - Vinous Media

"The 2023 Montepulciano d'Abruzzo Riparosso grumbles up with a hauntingly dark blend of citrus-tinged blackberry, wet stone and balsamic spice. Silken in texture yet lifted in feel, this cascades across the palate with tart wild berry fruit and crunchy mineral tones, all elevated by a core of zesty acidity. Just gently tannic, it leaves a violet resonance through the slightly angular finale."

91 Joe Czerwinski - Robert Parker's Wine Advocate

The price of Whitehall Lane's 2021 Cabernet Sauvignon has gone up 20% since I reviewed the 2019, but past experience is that savvy shoppers may be able to find it slightly discounted. It still represents a decent value in the realm of Napa Cabernet. Black cherries and dusty loam notes are joined by hints of sage and thyme plus barrel-derived accents of vanilla and maple syrup. Medium to full-bodied, it's silky and supple, easy to drink, yet with enough structure to partner rare beef.