94 Decanter

Jason Miller "This is undoubtedly southern stuff: rugged, less straightforward, always moving slightly out of focus, elusive but engaging. Sometimes we write that a wine tastes of lemons because it tastes vaguely like our idea of a lemon, but COS Pithos tastes more like a real, properly ripe southern Italian lemon – leaf attached, ridged and heavy, concealing its thick white inner pith. It unfurls flavours of ripe quince and bitter chicory with the barky, almost medicinal drag of quinine on the palate. It’s clean but wild, primal even; the sort of thing that may cause hesitation as you wonder if this is really what wine should taste like when you’ve only ever had screwcapped Pinot Grigio. The variety in question, known here as Grecanico, is none other than Soave Classico’s Garganega – but there is no way you could tell.” 10.5%