''The grapes, picked ripe, were refrigerated and with the water content nearly solid, were pressed gently, enabling the unfrozen acidity, carrying sugar and flavor, to drip out slowly before fermentation. Pale gold and voluptuous, the wine has an enticing tropical-floral bouquet, spicy and tropical flavors with embryonic layers of complexity, a slight piquancy and a long finish. HOWARD G. GOLDBERG"