96 Wine & Spirits

Arnaldo Alejandro Rodriguez Coca and his family farm 37 acres in Burgos, including the 60-to-70-year-old parcels in La Horra that provide fruit for this wine. His 2014 tastes like Spanish food, the flavors giving joyful pleasure and flavor detail that lives on with stubborn Spanish perseverance. It’s the kind of unfettered length of flavor you might find in a great grand cru Burgundy, lasting here with a completely Iberian turn. Part of that is the sunny ripeness of hedonistically sweet fruit, floral, juicy and completely fresh. Part of it is the dark tones of spice, of anise and musk that brings up an appetite for game, perhaps wild duck braised with wild mushrooms. At once luscious and restrained, this is seductively delicious.