"The 2009 Altos de Lanzaga has a more introverted bouquet than the 2007: tightly coiled with fine delineation and purity. The palate is beautifully defined with great weight and intensity without compromising upon its elegance and poise. Like the 2007, there is a Burgundy like allure to this weight, with tremendous clarity on the finish. âStunningâ is the word that springs to mind. Drink 2015-2025+
As well as visiting his family estate of Remelluri, I made a brief visit to Telmo Rodriguezâs minuscule, antediluvian winery in the village of Lanciego. It reminded me of setting foot in some of Burgundyâs more artisan domaines: cramped conditions, ancient cobwebbed walls, the acrid tang of mold and decades of winemaking. Telmo mentioned that authorities had tried to persuade him to at least concrete the floor, but he refuses, not wishing to tamper with the authenticity of the winery. I tasted wines from foudres that I will review once bottled. For now, I will concentrate upon those that are already in bottle, because they are spectacular. Telmo sees Altos de Lanzaga as the equivalent of a âpremier cruâ in Burgundy, sourced from 35-year-old vine grown on red soil that is fermented in cement vats and aged in foudres and casks. His aim is to find the character of the village of his vines within the ambit of Lanciego."
Product Description:
"In his mid 40âs, Telmo is the son of the family which owns the highly regarded Remelluri estate in Rioja,
where he was winemaker while putting together estates of his own. An oenology graduate from Bordeaux
University, he has worked with some of the great names of the Rhone â Chave, Clape, Guigal and the Perrin
brothers.
Regarded as somewhat of an âenfant terribleâ for his outspoken views, Telmo is a passionate opponent of the
internationalisation of Spanish vineyards, and is dedicated to a way forward for Spain which combines
indigenous varieties with superior viticulture and winemaking. He and his long-term wine-making and
viticulturist partner, Pablo Eguzkiza, created âCompañĂa de Vinos Telmo Rodriguezâ with the aim of selecting
outstanding vineyards to produce the best regionally typical varieties.
Attention to viticultural care is first class. In the winery the entire philosophy is to let the fruit speak â there is
not a less ârecipe-orientedâ winemaker anywhere. Low crop levels from old, high altitude bush vines are
typically made into three quality bands: a price-friendly drinker of great character and quality, a premium
French-oaked wine from the most concentrated fruit, and a super wine selected from the most elegant and
refined barrels. "
