94 James Suckling - Jamessuckling.com

This is good. A cooler climatic expression that remains distinctly Australian, rather than playing the reductive hand of an ersatz Rhone. An exceptional nose of mace, clove, blue fruits, olive and briar, backed by a wave of beef bouillon and iodine-umami warmth. The tannins, a clatter across the middle, with a bow of dutiful acidity drawn to just the right degree of tension. Some scrubby menthol dries the finish ever so slightly. This said, this is a delicious wine of immense personality and soul. Drink or hold.