92
Stephan Reinhardt - Robert Parker's Wine Advocate
"White golden in color, the 2013 Niersteiner Hipping Riesling R is from the same selection like the Hipping Grosses Gewächs, but this particular fuder ended up its (spontaneous) fermentation with 11% alcohol and 17 grams of residual sugar, making the Hipping R the classic halbtrocken or feinherb counter project to the dry Hipping GG. After the irritatingly reductive first moments (the wine was bottled in late autumn 2014), the wine displays fresh and spicy mineral notes along with tropical fruit aromas on the nose. Rich, mellow, full-bodied, piquant, lovely sappy and intense on the palate, the mouth-filling sweetness and tropical fruitiness of this Riesling is as lovely as is the lingering salinity and the persistence of fruit aromas of yellow plums, mirabelles, ripe nectarines and mango. This traditionally styled Hipping is much more fruit-focused than Keller's wines normally are, but this makes the Hipping lovely to drink today, although it can be aged for almost two decades. According to the former owner of this top parcel, Franz-Karl Schmitt, says Klaus Peter Keller, the Hipping always tastes even better with a few grams of residual sugar as if it was dry. (A last word about the reductive beginning of this wine: This aroma was completely faded away after a week and gave way to the same intense and ripe yellow-fleshed fruit flavors that we find on the palate, but is now intertwining with dusty/stony aromas.)"