90 Mark Squires - Robert Parker's Wine Advocate

The 1996 Reserva Velho Chitas is a Ramsico from ungrafted old vines (50+ years), aged for 48 months in large barrels of exotic woods (like Mahogany and Rosewood). It comes in at 12.5% alcohol. Despite the age, this is currently offered for sale. Bragging about their old wines in Colares is pretty much the way things work. Some merit the enthusiasm and many don't. Some suffer from delusions of grandeur. I'm leaning to enthusiasm here, although not quite all the way. Surprisingly lush and round, this harmonious wine is perfectly balanced, but it still has some vibrancy. It is a bit too jammy in the mid-palate for my taste. The strawberry and rhubarb nuances are still present but controlled. Overall, this is something a little different that is easy to like. It may not be quite as impressive as its current status would suggest, but it's very enjoyable. It should continue to age well for the next decade, maybe more. Of course, with Colares, the general view is often that the wines last indefinitely. For the rest of us, let's take that in stages. There were 5,600 bottles produced.