90
Mark Squires - Robert Parker's Wine Advocate
The 1996 Reserva Velho Chitas is a Ramsico from ungrafted old vines (50+ years), aged for 48 months in large barrels of exotic woods (like Mahogany and Rosewood). It comes in at 12.5% alcohol. Despite the age, this is currently offered for sale. Bragging about their old wines in Colares is pretty much the way things work. Some merit the enthusiasm and many don't. Some suffer from delusions of grandeur. I'm leaning to enthusiasm here, although not quite all the way. Surprisingly lush and round, this harmonious wine is perfectly balanced, but it still has some vibrancy. It is a bit too jammy in the mid-palate for my taste. The strawberry and rhubarb nuances are still present but controlled. Overall, this is something a little different that is easy to like. It may not be quite as impressive as its current status would suggest, but it's very enjoyable. It should continue to age well for the next decade, maybe more. Of course, with Colares, the general view is often that the wines last indefinitely. For the rest of us, let's take that in stages. There were 5,600 bottles produced.
Product Description:
Made from 100% Ramisco. Paulo da Silva is a standout amongst a handful of producers in Portugal making rare and obscure wines out of the tiny region of Colares. Grown from vines in pure sandy soils, Ramisco produces grapes from ungrafted vines, making these sparse vineyards on Portugal's coast a rare and incredibly unique wine growing area.
With over 20 years of the age, this wine is still remarkably young given it's powerful ability to retain structure and bright acidity. Upon seeing the color, you would think that this wine has been kept for at most 10 years, yet this wine still manages to retain a dense garnet core accented with brick and raisin brown hues. Lean and super ethereal palate with complex notes of cocao, fig skin, dried cherry, raisinated dates, dried germaniums and lush raspberry. A stunning wine from beginning to end. Drink now or continue to age this through 2050.
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