Whereas many growers here emphasize the thin-skinned, gentle nature of Poulsard and Trousseau, producing delicate, pale wines of wispy tannins and almost rosé-like fruit character, Emeric—like his mentor Jacques Puffeney before him—produces firm, bold red wines proud of their structure and deeply evocative of their limestone-dominated terroir…the result of a 3-week cuvaison…