95 Mark Squires - Robert Parker's Wine Advocate

The 2011 Tinto (Vale d. Maria), i.e, the flagship estate wine from the Quinta, is an old vines (65 years) field blend. Approximately three-fourths of the juice was fermented in tank, the rest in lagares. Then transferred to barrel, two thirds of the juice was aged in new French oak for 21 months, the other third in a mixture of second and third pass oak. It is listed at 15% alcohol. Tightly wound, a bit brooding and powerful this year, this is a big boy in terms of structure, showing astringency on the finish, yet it seems also to show fine balance overall, managing to project some elegance, notwithstanding its underlying power. The graceful mid-palate is beautifully constructed, not jammy or thick, but still concentrated. It has a persistent finish. Beneath the oaky overlay, there is fine fruit as well as that impressive structure. This promises to be exceptional if you have a little patience. The next day it seemed far better controlled in tannins and drank far better, the oak still a bit too obvious, but nicely toned down. It also, happily, showed a certain steely nuance, providing some evidence that it might be something other than one-dimensional. This unevolved and rather disjointed Vale d. Maria needs some time to show its stuff, absorb the oak and come around in general. It won’t be the wine to buy if you lack a cellar. It is likely on the short list for top vintages from this bottling, though, and it is worth leaning up at the moment. It will probably be around peak in 2018-2020 or so, but it will certainly be approachable sooner. As time goes on, I suspect this won’t be the best of the van Zeller 2011s – but it is pretty close and well priced compared to some. There were just 21,400 bottles produced, plus some large format bottles. Drink 2016-2031. Many of the big reds were just bottled at the end of June or July, 2013, then seen in early Fall in the USA, so take it as a given that they are unevolved and need some time to show their stuff. Most of them should be in retail circulation in the USA in early 2014, shortly after this article appears. They tend to be in small supply. The theme here is many labels and brands, but not much quantity for each one. So, act quickly when they get here if you’re interested. If they have a flaw, it is primarily that they are as a group on the pricey side. You and your wallet will have to deal with that part. This issue features three small-production specialty wines illustrating different parts of the Quinta’s terroir. Since two of the three are relatively new, I asked van Zeller what he was attempting to demonstrate. I got a very long answer – but an interesting and worthwhile one. So, I’ll let him tell it, with some necessary condensation for space. “We have very many factors that influence each part and each parcel of vineyards in the Douro: altitude, sun exposure, steepness of the soil, rockiness of the soil, density of vines, etc., all multiplied (especially in the vineyards planted before 1975) by an extraordinary different number of grape varieties. ? Vinha da Francisca and Vinha do Rio (are) specific parcels that show a very special character. In reality CV was the first wine we produced under this theory. It is the only vineyard we have facing north (at the time I had not ? fully developed (the idea) to call it Quinta Vale D. Maria Vinha do something - CV is a great name anyway). ? In the case of Vinha da Francisca and Vinha do Rio I wanted to show two different and somehow extreme parts of our terroirs (CV being already established on its own): (a) - the younger vines of the quinta , showing from now on, not only the development of the age of these vines, vintage after vintage, but being also the symbol of the future; (b) - the oldest vines of the quinta , showing the maturity and "wisdom" (have I any?) of the family and Vale D. Maria?the full tradition of the field blends in the Douro.” While Francisca has never been part of the regular Vale d. Maria blend, note that the Rio parcel has been traditionally. When I asked how the separate blending would affect the flagship Estate wine, Vale d. Maria Tinto, van Zeller said: “A part of Vinha do Rio will always be part of Quinta Vale D. Maria Douro Red?Rio has a potential to produce some 2.000 to 3.000 bottles but we have only been bottling as Rio between 900 and 1.900 bottles.”

92 Wine Enthusiast

"Dark and dense, it contains a powerful tannic structure as well as underlying ripe blackberry fruits. It's rich and complex, with a mineral edge and impressive ripe fruits. With its tannins, it does need to age before drinking, so wait until 2016. — Roger Voss