Hans-Bert Espe and Silke Wolf farm roughly five hectares in the not-so-famous region of
Germany’s Baden. This husband-and-wife team has spent the last decade slowly building a
reputation for pristine, delicate Pinot Noirs from Baden. You might call them understated, though the
rather petite structure and lively animation of the wines gives way to a mid-palate that is awash with
sweet perfumed fruit, transparent and mineral. In style, sensibility and size, they remind us quite a
bit of Weiser-Künstler in the Mosel (indeed, they’re all friends) – except this is Pinot Noir, from
Baden. You may have to remind yourself of this when you’re tasting the wines.