Hans-Bert Espe and Silke Wolf farm roughly five hectares in the not-so-famous region of Germany’s Baden. This husband-and-wife team has spent the last decade slowly building a reputation for pristine, delicate Pinot Noirs from Baden. You might call them understated, though the rather petite structure and lively animation of the wines gives way to a mid-palate that is awash with sweet perfumed fruit, transparent and mineral. In style, sensibility and size, they remind us quite a bit of Weiser-Künstler in the Mosel (indeed, they’re all friends) – except this is Pinot Noir, from Baden. You may have to remind yourself of this when you’re tasting the wines.