Ampeau’s Volnay Santenots, is an elegant, fine wine, just starting to hit its stride. Their parcel is old-vine, nearing 60 years, and is rooted in a mix of iron-rich clay and hard limestone facing southeast. The 2002 opens with a complex nose of forest-floor tinged, dark-berry fruit yet it quickly evolves into a bouquet of fresh red flowers, wild berries, and savory spice. The finish is long and stony, a mile long.