89 Mark Squires - Robert Parker's Wine Advocate

The 2019 Pinot Gris, still sourced from Curry Creek Vineyard, although that is no longer on the label, comes in at four grams per liter of residual sugar, 7.05 grams of total acidity and 12.6% alcohol. You'll notice at the outset that there is a somewhat pink color to this, which is due to the cold-soaking process that the winery uses for the "aromatic and mid-palate complexity that results." The visual impression might make you think that there is something off-dry or simple here, but that's not the case at all. This has somewhat lush texture on opening, but it is crisp ultimately, with a fair share of power and a big finish. It's filled with flavor, especially as it airs out and warms up, but the exuberant and youthful fruit is always well supported. For the moment, this looks pretty fine, a bargain if you like them zesty and crisp. Under screw cap, it won't surprise me if it ages well. It is, admittedly, the one in this group where I have the most doubt, so we'll be a bit conservative just now; but it's hard to go wrong at the price point. There were 534 cases produced.