With fruit from the Meruzzano MGA site, the top-end Mustela 2017 Barbaresco Riserva Ultimo degli Onesti shows some dried fruit and spice in line with this hot and dry vintage. Dried cherry, tar, licorice and earth emerge from the bouquet. The mouthfeel is medium-bodied and long, with open-knit tannins that suggest a medium-term drinking window. The Riserva sees 36 months in French oak, and a mere 1,330 bottles were produced.