94 Mike Bennie - The Wine Front

Starts off with 85% mataro, gets a dose of 12% syrah and 3% grenache. Tug at a thread from the tapestry of 2014 releases from Ruggabellus and you get a picture of savouriness. That’s the take home message from these 2014 wines. Light on, but very, very savoury. Don’t expect the usual personality of Barossa Valley wines with their regular richness and heft. Really savoury, meaty, dusty bouquet with red and black berry fruit set amongst meat drippings, charcuterie plate whiffs and general animale, yet clean and fresh fruited too. Curious and delicious start. Lean but flavoursome and sinewy across the palate. Brisk in fruit character with striking flavours of just ripe red berry fruit, herbs, raw meat with ropes of slender dusty tannin that finish chewy and mouthwatering. Lovely, lovely drinking, but very much in a shimmer of Barossa’s more recognisable deep flavoured spectrum. And great for that. Must buy for enthusiasts of this producer.