90 Mark Squires - Robert Parker's Wine Advocate

The 2021 Loureiro Pássaros comes in with something less than 1.5 grams of residual sugar, 6.4 grams of total acidity and 12.2% alcohol. This is an interesting comparison with the Loureiro Muros Antigos in this report. This Pássaros label is just for the USA, but it has become a fine competitor at the same price point. The wines differ only in terroir. Tiago Mendes told me last year that the winery has "70 hectares of vineyards of Loureiro in the Lima Valley, distributed by five estates on the left and right banks. There are no differences in the vinification process between these two wines; the only difference is the origin of the grapes—Pássaros is sourced from the estates located on the right bank of the river, with lower altitude and outcrops of schist, while the Muros Antigos is sourced from the estates located on the left bank of the river, with higher altitude and granitic soils with sandy texture." Well, this year the terroir seems to make these different. I suspect consumers will mostly prefer this one, but it's really a tossup and a personal preference. This, though, expresses the grape better. It smells and tastes more like classic Loureiro while adding fine structure. The Muros Antigos is its superior in structure, though, while not expressing the Loureiro quite as well. Which do you lean to? This year, a rare occurrence, I'd take this one. But again, it's close, and some aging may change that calculation. For the moment, let's lean up. It might be interesting to compare the two again around 2025.