2017 Alzinger Gruner Veltliner Ried Muhlpoint SmaragdGruner Veltliner from Austria
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Leo Alzinger is located in Unterloiben, just across the street from Knoll. Leo owns parcels in two of the great vineyards in this part of the river valley: Loibenberg and Stein...
- 94 Wine Spectator
94 Wine Spectator
"A rich, smoky Grüner, luscious and creamy up front, but with underlying acidity that pierces its way through, revealing persimmon, vanilla and cardamom notes. Features a really lovely texture, almost velvety, coating the palate, but still remains fresh. Complex and long. Best from 2020 through 2030."
Leo Alzinger is located in Unterloiben, just across the street from Knoll. Leo owns parcels in two of the great vineyards in this part of the river valley: Loibenberg and Steinertal. Loibenberg is a towering, terraced hillside, while the diminutive (5.5 hectare) Steinertal is hidden and maintains a cooler micro-climate. On the terraced vineyards of both sites, Riesling is cultivated on the higher, more primary rock rich parcels while Grüner Veltliner is cultivated on the lower, silty, loess based parcels. Harvest at Alzinger happens later than some of Leo’s neighbors in Unterloiben, something he attributes to old vines and the specific exposition of his parcels. The extra time on the vine doesn’t increase sugar levels, Leo says, but rather pushes physiological ripeness to greater balance. Alzinger crushes whole cluster with a short maceration, then allows the must to settle for 24 hours, dropping any green tannins out. Tasting the wines next to some of the other Wachau greats, it becomes apparent that elegance and pristine fruit is what Leo looks for in winemaking, rather than opulence. Alzinger’s wines are never forceful or assertive; they are instead amazingly sanguine and calmly transparent.
The Mühlpoint vineyard is located on the slope of the Steinertal. While in the upper part of the influence of the mountain is still clearly felt and gneiss penetrates to the surface, the lower half is increasingly characterized by the level and continuously deeper loam layers. Aromatically, these factors are mainly noticeable through a pronounced spiciness.
94 - Wine Spectator
|Taste||high acid, asparagus, white pepper, citrus and grapefruit|
|Nose||melon, citrus and spice|