This is an estate that offers not only among the best white wines in the Veneto, but among Italy’s finest per se. They show even greater transparency and brilliance with age. Apricot pith, cardamon, mango peel, and a waft of vanillin-cedar French oak nicely embedded into the fray. The finish is long and pungently mineral, boding well for bottle age. A hot vintage melded into a coil of well-handled reductive tension and ample flare. Drink or hold.
