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Eleni and Edouard Vocoret continue to thrive, reporting yields of between 50-55 hectoliters per hectare in 2019 and a touch more in 2020, and they're justly satisfied with the results. As I've written before, the Vocorets are among the most ambitious new arrivals on the scene in a region where aspiration is frequently limited to making refreshing bistro wine. This domaine's wines are refreshing, certainly, but they're concentrated, elegantly textural and incipiently complex too. As I wrote last year, the Vocorets farm their vineyards without herbicides or pesticides and harvest by hand. In the cellar, vinification is in tank, followed by élevage in used barrels—very much in the mold of Vincent Dauvissat, one of the young couple's mentors. The big news at this address is that the couple will be taking over more family vineyards, so there will soon be some grand cru Chablis in the cellar here. It couldn't be more richly deserved.