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"Young brothers Antoine and Nico at Robert-Denogent are stars of the Mâconnais, and rightfully so: they farm incredibly old vines in the region’s top terroirs, allowing their vineyards to shine through organic farming and all-natural vinifications. They are continuing what their father, Jean-Jacques Robert, started in 1988 when he took over the family’s vines and began bottling his own wines. Jean-Jacques drew inspiration from the great master of Morgon, Marcel Lapierre, and Kermit himself—peers whose passion for terroir-driven wines had a tremendous impact on his career.

The vineyard La Croix is unique in the Mâconnais for its schist soils, a sort of black sheep in an appellation composed nearly entirely of clay and limestone. Scorned by other local vignerons, La Croix is one of Nico and Antoine Robert’s most prized parcels. They liken it to certain sites in the Jura more than to any other Burgundian terroir. And indeed, the ripe Chardonnay fruit is decisively lean and wiry, finishing on a crunchy note of salted butterscotch you might associate with whites from the likes of Ganevat or Rousset-Martin. The brothers raised this 2017 for three years in a combination of vessels including used barrels, concrete tanks, and amphorae, capturing the best of all worlds." -Importer