96 Jeb Dunnuck - jebdunnuck.com

The 2004 Champagne Blanc de Blancs La Vigne d'Antan Brut Nature is 100% Chardonnay from ungrafted vines on sandy soils that face northwest. This is an exceptional wine. The nose is pretty and refined, with white flowers, marzipan, and lemon curd. It is supple, with a pillowy mousse, and has layers of complexity and depth, with custard, soft wet stone, and white peach. The palate is dry and certainly has mineral and energetic tension, but it feels balanced and not austere. Drink 2023-2043. Disgorged June of 2021.