2019 Joh. Jos. Prum Wehlener Sonnenuhr Spatlese RieslingRiesling from Germany
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Joh. Jos. Prüm needs no introduction to Riesling lovers, having already become a Mosel icon during the nearly five decades during which its namesake’s son Sebastien was in char...
- 95 Stephan Reinhardt - Robert Parker's Wine Advocate
95 Stephan Reinhardt - Robert Parker's Wine Advocate
"The 2019 Wehlener Sonnenuhr Spätlese is very clear and spicy on the concentrated, intensely aromatic and flinty/stony nose. Highly delicate and filigreed on the palate, this is a persistently salty and finely grippy Sonnenuhr Spätlese with great balance, finesse and mouthwatering astringency. Excellent. Tasted at the domain in September 2020."
Tasting 2018 and 2019 chez JJ Prüm was one of the highlights of my Mosel trip in September. However, I decided to taste the highest predicates only in early 2021 and to focus entirely on Kabinett, Spätlese and Auslese, which is the core of the production here. I don't know which wine I should pick out here, but I assume I have rarely tasted better Kabinett wines here than the 2019s, namely the Wehlener Sonnenuhr, the Graacher Himmelreich and the Bernkasteler Badstube. Among the wide range of great Auslesen, I'd like to draw your attention to the iconic Wehlener Sonnenuhr, whose Gold Caps from both 2019 and 2018 are fabulous. I'll be back here in late winter for the rest of the 2018s and 2019s as well as for a range of auctioned wines about which I will report next spring.
Joh. Jos. Prüm needs no introduction to Riesling lovers, having already become a Mosel icon during the nearly five decades during which its namesake’s son Sebastien was in charge. Katharina Prüm has been active alongside her father, Manfred, since early in the new millennium, and the two of them perpetuate a house style that has itself become a Mosel archetype: wines of delicacy and restrained sweetness, often strongly marked in youth by yeasty and otherwise fermentative aromas, and tingling with dissolved CO2. Their longevity is legendary, and the Prüms personally don’t care to drink their own wines – even the Kabinetts – with less than a dozen, and usually many more, years in bottle. The aromas of youthful Prüm wines make it obvious that fermentation here is entirely spontaneous. Manfred makes no secret of his longstanding disinterest in legally dry wines. These are uncompromising, benchmark Mosel wines.
The Wehlener Sonnenuhr vineyard has become intrinsically attached to the name of Joh. Jos. Prüm. The estate owns five hectares of this majestic site. It offers perfect growing conditions for the Riesling grape with its deep, weather-beaten grey slate soil, good water support, extreme steepness of up to 70% gradient, and its optimal south-south-west exposure. Wehlener Sonnenuhr is named after the sundial erected in the vineyard in 1842 by Jodocus Prüm, an ancestor of J.J. Prüm, to give the workers a better time orientation. The wines of the Wehlener Sonnenuhr possess excellent structure, show beautiful, ripe aromas and flavors (typically stone fruits), a fine minerality, and great depth and length. After having been aged for some years, the harmony, finesse and expression of these wines is unique. Stuart Pigott writes “Joh. Jos. Prüm’s Sonnenuhrs are classic examples of the way in which the best Mosel wine’s natural sweetness magnifies, rather than obscures, their character.”
95 - Stephan Reinhardt - Robert Parker's Wine Advocate
|Taste||apple, pear, peach, apricot and honey|
|Nose||petrol, flint, rose petal, violet, orange peel, apple, pear and peach|