91 Connoisseurs Guide to Wine

"Ripeness when balanced by fruit is no crime, but this ripe and very rich wine at least thinks about sinning, and, if it starts out with lots of flashy oak and sweet fruit, it straightens up and flies right thanks to its firm spine of vaguely Cabernet-like tannins. Its bent to finishing coarseness and heat does not stop its fruity persistence, and if slightly soft at the edges, it is one that will be best if drunk later rather than sooner."