Rating:
94
John Gilman - View from the Cellar
"The 2014 Morgon "Bio-Vitis" from Michel Guignier is produced from sixty-one year-old vines in the fine lieu à dit of La Roche Pilée, and the wine is aged in old Burgundy casks. As I have noted in the past, Monsieur Guignier farms this parcel organically. The 2014 rendition is really stunning and a bit more extroverted in personality than the Vieilles Vignes bottling this year, as it jumps from the glass in a blend of red and black cherries, stony soil tones, a bit of dark chocolate, violets, woodsmoke and a hint of cedar. On the palate the wine is pure, full-bodied and sappy at the core, with great focus and structure, bright acids, modest, beautifully integrated tannins and outstanding length and grip on the superb finish. This is a young wine that will age beautifully, but it is so good out of the blocks that it is going to be hard not to drink this wine in the first blush of youth! 2015-2040."
Product Description:
"Bio-Vitis is the name Michel Guignier gave to this wine composed of 100% Agribio-certified fruit from La Roche Pilée, a site located at the base of the famed Cote du Py hillside in Morgon. The wine is a selection of old vines that are barrel fermented in neutral oak. It is the most structured wine in the Guignier lineup with classic red fruit character, sappiness and a seductive, round mouthfeel.
Michel Guignier is a fourth generation vigneron in Villié Morgon, in the heart of the AOC Morgon appellation in Beaujolais. Following in the footsteps of the famed “Gang of Four” in Morgon, Guignier is committed to producing wines in the most natural way possible in order to both protect the environment and create wines that are alive and transmit a sense of place. He is in the process of slowly converting his estate to full organic certification, though has been planting grass and herbs between the rows as well as ploughing and composting for many years.
The Morgon appellation is characterized by soils of decomposed granite and crumbly schist referred to regionally as “rotten rock”. Many of Guignier’s vines are up to 70 years old, all are tended by hand with yields kept to a minimum. Guignier feels that when grapes arrive at the cellar at full physiological ripeness then you have everything you have to make a top wine. As such, grapes are picked entirely by hand and rigorous sorting is done both in the vineyard and in the cellar before the grapes go into cement vats for vinification.
Guignier follows a traditional vinification “à la Beaujolaise” with no de-stemming and with only indigenous yeasts used for the fermentation. The wines are macerated for 6-7 days for the Beaujolais and up to 14-15 days for his top Morgons. Guignier uses a vertical wooden press that slowly and gently presses the grapes. After pressing, most of his wines are returned to cement to finish their alcoholic and malolactic fermentations. His top cuvée, the Morgon “Bio-Vitis”, however, is raised in neutral burgundy barrels. The élévage is between 5 and 15 months depending on the terroir and the quality of the vintage. Vintages with more tender, forward fruit are bottled a bit earlier, while the more structured years receive a longer time in vat or wood before bottling. Guinier uses minimal doses of S02, though he prefers to add it after the malolactic rather that at bottling as he feels it integrates better into the wine. He also makes several cuvées for the French market that are made entirely without sulphur at all.
Guignier’s wines display that transparent, ethereal, soil-driven quality that makes naturally-made, top Beaujolais so unique and joyful to drink. Among them are a fresh and charming Beaujolais AOC made from 50 year old vines, a rich and well structured Morgon Vieilles Vignes from 60-70 year old vines, and the complex and seductive Morgon Bio-Vitis made exclusively from fruit from La Roche Pilée, a south facing vineyard of pure, decomposed rock located at the base of the Cote de Py.
Michel Guignier is clearly a rising star who will soon join the ranks of the many luminaries in the village of Morgon." - Importer