2015 Gilbert Picq Chablis Vosgros 1er CruChardonnay from France
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- 92-94 Neal Martin - Robert Parker's Wine Advocate
- 91-93 Stephen Tanzer - Vinous Media
- 89-92 Allen Meadows - Burghound
92-94 Neal Martin - Robert Parker's Wine Advocate
"The 2015 Chablis 1Er Cru Vosgros, which tends to be the most reductive of Picq's cuvées, was indeed quite closed down on the nose when I tasted it from vat. These aromatics don't want to come out and play. The palate is clean and fresh with a keen line of acidity, very precise and probably with the most saline finish among Picq's 2015s. Indeed, you can feel the tail of this wine long after it has departed, thanks to that Szechuan pepper residue. This is superb.
Located just round the corner from Drouhin-Vaudon in Chichée, Domaine Gilbert Picq is one of the go-to producers if you want austere, tensile Chablis with nary a grain of wood. When I wrote last year that Chablis has to have a pleasurable meanness to it, then it is such producers that I think about. Some might call them “real Chablis”. It’s really just a certain style that I personally adore, although others may find a percentage of wood imparts more approachability. You take your pick.
But certainly brothers Didier and Pascal are masters of their craft. “I started the 2015 harvest on September 9 and finished on September 15,” Didier told me. “The wines went through 100% malolactic and with no acidification. The alcohol came in at around 13% with pH levels around 3.30. I think it is a vintage for the long term and so I have bottled a lot of magnum, even though there is less acidity than in 2014. There is very good structure in the wines. The problem is that they are already very pleasant to drink!” You know, when Gilbert enthused about the 2015s and basically placed them on the same level as the 2014, I was skeptical. In all of my previous tastings, the 2014 was clearly ahead. But once I commenced tasting the wines, I could see exactly where he was coming from and this was one of the few growers whose 2015s equal, and might even surpass, the previous vintage. You would not expect that because the warmth of that growing season would not necessarily have played into their hands. What they have achieved is to pierce their 2015s with superb acidity and tension, much more Zen-like than many others that I tasted, to the point where you might be hard pressed guessing whether the wine was 2014 or 2015."
91-93 Stephen Tanzer - Vinous Media
"Bright medium yellow. Captivating nose combines lemon oil, ginger and a suggestion of oyster-shell reduction. Densely packed and quite backward, with piquant lime, crushed rock and mineral flavors framed by edgy lemony acidity. The most taut of these 2015s, in fact almost austere today. All of these wines will need time in bottle to gain in complexity.
In 2015, Picq's vineyards were untouched by hail and he harvested very ripe fruit quickly, between September 9 and 15. He noted that Vaucoupin and Vosgros were picked at the same time, even though Vosgros normally comes in a week later. Potential alcohol levels ranged from 12.5% to 13.8% and even the richest cuvées finished their alcoholic and malolactic fermentations by December, but the first racking was not done until February. Picq considers 2015 to be a unique vintage and believes that the wines will be easy to drink virtually upon release and will never really shut down. He told me he likes the zesty finishing bitterness of these wines, which he believes is produced by the vintage's combination of alcohol and minerality."
89-92 Allen Meadows - Burghound
"From 40+ year old vines aged in 100% stainless. Here the more reserved nose arguably offers the most evident Chablis typicity in the range with its aromas of citrus peel, green fruit, petrol, quinine and sea shore scents. There is excellent mid-palate concentration and an overt muscularity to the powerful and serious flavors that deliver fine length on the sneaky long finale. This notably dry effort isn't elegant but I like the punch and salinity."
92-94 - Neal Martin - Robert Parker's Wine Advocate
91-93 - Stephen Tanzer - Vinous Media
89-92 - Allen Meadows - Burghound
|Taste||apple, pear, peach, apricot, lemon, lime, orange, pineapple, kiwi, butter, cream and vanilla|
|Nose||apple, pear, peach, apricot, lemon, lime, orange, pineapple, kiwi, butter, cream and vanilla|