93 Mark Squires - Robert Parker's Wine Advocate

The 2019 Curtimenta is all Alvarinho, aged for nine months in used French oak after fermentation with skin contact for 24 hours. It comes in at 12.8% alcohol, something less than 1.5 grams of residual sugar and 5.6 of total acidity. This is completely different in style than Mendes's Parcela Única, its long-time sibling as an upper-level wine. Feeling deeper than I expected, at least in terms of mouthfeel, this adds predictable grip on the finish and handles the wood very well. It's a big white table wine that is most suitable for a food pairing, not simple sipping on the porch. In fact, the Parcela Única this year is far more elegant and less stern, if a touch oakier. This certainly changes what you might think Vinho Verde is supposed to be. At the moment, it seems exceptional. It should age well, but it drinks nicely now too. If I had a quibble, it wasn't quite as impressive the next day.