88 David Schildknecht - Robert Parker's Wine Advocate

"Named for the eponymous mineral, Hexamer's 2004 Meddersheimer Rheingrafenberg Riesling 'Quarzit' was fermented in two lightly-chaptalized lots, one spontaneously and one with cultured yeasts. This cuvee, as usual, pits high levels of acid and residual sugar against one another and comes up with enhanced fruit intensity, dynamic interplay of flavors, and a goodly amount of sheer tension. Grapefruit, grapefruit rind, white currants, flowers, marzipan and honey in the nose are followed by a similarly citric, curranty, and honeyed mouthful of bracing, ripe fruit acids, salty minerality, and lightly sizzling citrus rind phenolics. All of this is nicely checked and offered counterpoint by 52 grams of residual sugar and by sheer stuffing. The wine finishes with bracing refreshment, lip-smacking saltiness and mouthcoating fruit."