93 David Schildknecht - Robert Parker's Wine Advocate

"Cassis, blackberry, and plum offer a rich heart to the 2007 Coteaux du Languedoc Mas Julien, a blend of Carignan, Mourvedre, Syrah, and a bit of Grenache. Alkaline, saline, brine-like notes remind me of the estate’s white, while black olive, carob, cherry pit, bay, juniper berry, and charred red meat add intrigue to a rather brooding and almost inscrutably dense, albeit ultra-finely tannic, seamless palate presence. This finishes with implacable grip yet mouthwatering invigoration and latent energy. Expect it to be worth following for 8-10 years."

"Olivier Jullien is expanding his acreage in high-elevation Saint-Privat, involving both new plantings and old vines, and including the acquisition of three rare old parcels of Carignan Blanc there, the last of which will come on-line next year. Given the talent and track record behind this estate, it is unsurprising that its flagship 2007 displays unusual tannic refinement and energy for that vintage, and that its 2008s are not to be missed. (For some reason, I was not offered an opportunity in April to taste the most recent installments of the domaine’s second wine, 'Les Etats d’Ame.') Jullien had largely not determined his 2009 blends when I visited him in April. Tasted from his usual mixture of foudre, muids and demi-muids (nowadays favoring Austrian tonnelier Franz Stockinger), the various lots displayed profound complexity, including floral and mineral dimensions as well are refinement of tannin exceptional for their vintage. These 2009s finished malo early, on the back end of alcoholic fermentation, but Jullien is a partisan of long elevage. Conditions in 2009 as well as the performance of his raw materials from that vintage simply reinforce Olivier Jullien's preference in his grand vin for Carignan and Mourvedre (which, incidentally, finished in the 14-14.5% alcohol range). He prefers to keep his Grenache apart, not only because it characteristically achieves his highest alcohol levels but because he believes it too easily dominates any blend. When it comes to higher altitudes and stonier soils around Saint-Privat - as opposed to the one parcel of this cepage that remains in his majority Jonquieres vineyards - Jullien is willing to credit Grenache with more refined potential, which he tries to showcase in his Carlan cuvee. 'As for Syrah,' he says, 'that's the spice in the blends. It's easy for Syrah in Jonquieres' deep soils to become very animal and a bit too much' (those last two words spoken in English). It will come as no shock to anyone who has read the general introduction to this Languedoc coverage (published in issue 195) to learn that the potential for 2010 at his estate - despite unusually protracted picking due to irregular flowering and cool weather - is thrilling in both red and white."