91 Mark Squires - Robert Parker's Wine Advocate

The 2008 NAOUSSA, that is, a Xinomavro, is the latest iteration of a well priced bottling that I have come to rely upon as one of the better red values in Greece, often available on the street for well under its list price. This year seems like an exceptional vintage for this bottling, which makes it one of the better values recently. Its hallmark is always refinement and balance. It is never a rustic Xinomavro, but at the same time it still preserves its essence and characteristics and expresses its terroir well as time goes on. Caressing in texture, yet increasingly powerful as it fleshes out in the glass to show good depth, it lingers on the palate and grips it. When the baby fat goes, which I began to see with extended aeration, it will show increasing transparency and character, becoming earthier and purer, more complex and transparent and become interesting as well as tasty. It shows the ability to change into something more with age and it should age gracefully. It drank beautifully the next day, showing that promised purity and transparency, seeming clean and unadorned. If you like Xinomavro—or Barbaresco--this is a fine overachiever that I liked more and more as it aired out. It is well worth seeking out. While approachable with some air, it is pretty tight. Drink 2013-2025.