90 Mark Squires - Robert Parker's Wine Advocate

"The 2008 Estate Tinto is revisited this issue as part of the vertical of Conceito's Estate wines. Showing plenty of power, but less depth than its predecessors, this is otherwise much along the same lines: tannins front-and-center, hits of oak still present, the fruit a touch austere. It should still hold beautifully for the rest of the decade at the least and it may yet improve. Its more lifted and fresher feel makes it very appealing, but its relative lack of concentration becomes obvious compared to its siblings as it airs out over a couple of hours.

This issue features verticals of the Conceito Estate Tinto and Branco--the flagship red and white. As is always the case, of course, library wines are not necessarily readily available and if you find them prices may vary. I have used the current release price just as an indicator here.

The Tintos show a remarkable consistency in some respects. As time goes on, they develop more finesse, but they all open with serious backbones. They also, happily, manage to have fresh fruit and a generally lifted feel to them. Also notable is the winery's ability to make nice wine in off vintages. The differences between "great" and "mediocre" vintages is not so vast here. Somehow, owner Rita Marques manages to maintain consistency. Pick a year--it's hard to be disappointed. That is the sign of a fine winery."