2014 Bernard Levet Cote Rotie La ChavarocheSyrah / Shiraz from France
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"Cote Rotie La Chavaroche: The cuvee that we have imported from the outset (1983 vintage) is from the “Chavaroche” vineyard. As explained above, this wine is aged for thirty to...
- 93-95 Josh Raynolds - Vinous Media
93-95 Josh Raynolds - Vinous Media
"Made from vines that average around 60 years of age; aged in demi-muids- and foudres. Bright purple. Deep-pitched, smoke- and mineral-accented black and blue fruit, olive and floral pastille aromas are complemented by a strong suggestion of peppery spices. Fleshy, concentrated and gently sweet, offering intense, spice-tinged black currant and boysenberry flavors that tighten up slowly with air. Densely packed yet lithe, finishing with serious thrust and fine-grained tannins that meld seamlessly with the potent dark fruit.
While I'm a long-time fan of the Levet family's traditionally made wines, there's no doubt in my mind that with the arrival of Nicole and Bernard Levet's daughter, Agnes, the wines are now among the very best being made in the appellation. The wild character and concentration that has always marked the wines is still there, but there's a degree of elegance and, I daresay, polish to them that one didn't find in decades past. The wines are still raised in large oak foudres as well as demi-muids, with only about 10% of them new, and the flagship Chavaroche bottling only sees foudres, which is often the case with the Journaries as well. Agnes told me that while she thinks the 2014s will drink well on the relatively young side because "they have a very nice balance of richness and freshness," the concentration and power of the 2013s makes cellaring them "an obligation." They'll be shutting down soon, she thinks, and after that, "you should really wait at least ten years, maybe fifteen" before revisiting them."
"Cote Rotie La Chavaroche: The cuvee that we have imported from the outset (1983 vintage) is from the “Chavaroche” vineyard. As explained above, this wine is aged for thirty to thirty-six months prior to bottling. It is, quite simply, a ferocious wine, unique in its uninhibited expression of the smells and flavors of the appellation. No compromise is brooked here. The result is a wine that is controversial, too “wild” for many but, for us, one of the most elite wines in our personal pantheon. We import annually approximately 2400 bottles (a mix of 750mls and magnums).
Nicole Levet’s grandfather first purchased vineyards in Ampuis in 1936 and began making wine immediately thereafter. Initially, he delivered his Cote Rotie in barrels to the city of St. Etienne where he sold it to bistros and cafes for consumption by the miners of that city. In 1966, Nicole’s father, Marius Chambeyron, began to bottle a small portion of the production of the estate. I first encountered Marius Chambeyron in 1982 as I prospected in the region. He was a proud and somewhat brazen man who, despite the tiny size of his estate, proudly painted his name on the rocks that fronted the terraces of his small swath of vineyards as in the manner of the seigneurs of the appellation like Guigal, Delas and Vidal-Fleury. As we were preparing to begin our commercial relationship, Monsieur Chambeyron took ill and we never had the opportunity to bring his wines to the States.
The Domaine’s current total production is 12,000 to 15,000 bottles annually and is exclusively of the appellation of Cote Rotie. We can proudly say that we have imported the wines of this domaine since that fabled 1983 vintage, never missing a vintage and eagerly accepting our annual allocation.
The domaine consists of 3.5 hectares of vineyards, all of which are located within the boundaries of the town of Ampuis and are entitled to the Cote Rotie appellation. The vines are dispersed among six separate parcels: “Chavaroche” (Cote Brune/southwest exposure/average age 40 years/1.2 hectare)
“Landonne” (Cote Brune/one-third hectare/entirely old vines)
“Font Jean” (Cote Brune/young vines/.15 hectare)
“Les Craies” (Cote Blonde/southwest exposure/entirely old vines/half hectare)
“Mollard” (Cote Blonde/southeast exposure/old vines/one-third hectare)
“Moulin” (situated just below La Turque/young vines/.4 hectare)
The vineyards are all steeply terraced and must be worked and harvested manually. In my entire experience, I have encountered no one who takes better care nor manages a vineyard with the talent of the Levet family. The grapes are generally not destemmed before passing through a pneumatic press. The primary fermentation takes place in epoxy lined cuves. There is a long maceration and the cuvaison lasts three weeks. The fermentation temperatures reach 30 degrees centigrade. The malolactic fermentation normally finishes by the end of the year. The wine is then racked into large oak barrels where it spends the remainder of its first year. At the beginning of the second year, the wines are racked into medium-sized barrels (“demi-muid”) 10 – 15% of which are new. In the third year, the wines are racked again and left to complete the barrel aging in a mixture of “demi-muid” and small barrels. The wines are bottled after three years of barrel aging with a light fining and no filtration." -Importer