94 Josh Raynolds - Vinous Media

"Bright violet. Expansive, mineral-tinged aromas of black and blue fruit preserves, potpourri and olive, and a spicy nuance that builds in the glass. Sweet, tightly focused cassis, boysenberry and floral pastille flavors show superb depth and become smokier and spicier with air. Decidedly rich and full but possesses excellent energy thanks to a spine of bright minerality. The sappy, extremely long finish features building tannins and a lingering violet note. I underestimated this wine from barrel.

The red wines here continue to show a more refined character than those of a decade ago, but the Bonnefond brothers are still producing some of the most extroverted Côte-Rôties one is likely to encounter. There's a better fruit/oak balance in evidence in recent vintages, and the wines show a slightly more friendly and less tannic character than in the past, but there's no lack of concentration either. Christophe, who leads the Côte-Rôtie growers' association, told me that based on the success of other vintages "when the fruit was round and the tannins harmonious," he expects the 2014s from the entire region "to move very quickly." He noted that basic, regional wines and early-bottled appellation wines from the vintage "disappeared almost as soon as they were offered."