92 Eric Guido - Vinous Media

The 2017 Birba shows the primary intensity and darker fruit of the vintage, with a display of crushed black cherry, clove, cinnamon, hints of leather and sweet exotic florals. It's rich and intense with silky textures giving way to concentrated tart woodland berries, lifted by cooling herbal tones and hints of licorice towards the close. While youthfully structured, there's simply so much character packed into its long finish that you can hardly notice. That said, the 2017 will impress most for it's upfront appeal. The Birba is basically a declassified Brunello that spends one less year in oak, which is balanced between medium-toast barrique and Slavonian botte.