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Wine & Spirits
"Peter Jakob Kühn is the eleventh generation of his family to make wine, farming nearly 50 acres in and around Oestrich; today he works with his son, Peter Bernhard, who has helped the family convert the vineyards to biodynamics. This wine comes from two vineyards in Oestrich Doosberg, both marked by the quartzite veins in the loess and clay-loam soils. It shines in the glass, seeming to emanate more energy than normal for a mere liquid; one sniff is equally tempting, the scent a direct line to a field of warm stone, dried grasses and wildflowers. The flavors feel pristine, perfectly ripe and preserved, even as they offer a sense of warmth and generosity in their slight caramel edge; the acidity feels alive, unobtrusive yet vital. It ends with a saline note that's so mouthwatering, it's hard to put the glass down. For a mushroom risotto, or anything umami." Reviewed December 2015