90 Mark Squires - Robert Parker's Wine Advocate

"I am including this with the 2011s, because it sort of is one, although legally it is merely a Ruby Reserve, not a vintage-dated Port. The 'Lot' on the label basically indicates its essential vintage source (in this case 2011). This year there is less than 10% combined of the 2010 and 2012 vintages blended in, the rest being 2011. This is a field blend aged for 9 months in stainless steel and 12 months in used oak - basically the same treatment as the true Vintage Port from Vale d. Maria this year. Van Zeller said to me, regarding his 'Lot' series, that 'they do not have a full Vintage Port power...I cannot call it any other thing nor date it...I decided to call it Reserve.' All that said, this bargain-priced Reserve is one of the nicest values here. Gentle and friendly on opening, it wakes up and shows structure that I did not think it had. It feels rather full in the mouth, at least at the moment and for its level, and drinks great. It has verve and acidity, giving the fruit a lifted feel and delivering bright flavor to the palate. It also has its share of tannic pop, so don’t misunderstand Cristiano's comments - there is some power here. It won’t be the type of power that may let the wine last gracefully for 40 years, but it is a Port with beautiful balance that makes it relatively easy to drink young without seeming either lifeless or simple. I might also mention that it is quite delicious. There are some bursts of alcohol here and there, but they subside over time. This comes with a real cork, not a bar top, which gives the wine more of a chance in the cellar. It drank far better the next day, and was simply gorgeous on Day 3. It probably shouldn't be bought with the express intention of aging it a long while, but it seems to me that it has the stuffing and structure to hold a reasonable time. Let’s take that in stages...but don’t hesitate to grab a case. This is something I could get used to drinking a lot of. It fulfills its purposes exceptionally well, and it is worth leaning up a bit for a wine that does that. It may well thin with time and shed tannins more quickly than Van Zeller's true Vintage Port, but I've still had some other Vintage Ports I liked less, even allowing for those aging curve issues. I’m told that it will be in the country at the end of 2013, or early 2014. It's a steal. Drink now-2024." (11/13)