Rating:
94
Allen Meadows - Burghound
"Outstanding. From 3 separate parcels totaling .75 ha which were planted in 1950. As is generally the case, this is more elegant and refined than any of the preceding wines with its layered nose of ripe but brooding dark currant, violet and spice scents. In much the same fashion as the Pézerolles there is excellent volume and power to the broad-shouldered and overtly mineral-inflected flavors that culminate in an explosively persistent finish. This is not quite as chiseled as it usually is but the finish makes it abundantly clear that this is going to age for a very long time. Once again, patience, and plenty of it, required. Excellent and highly recommended if you have that patience."
Product Description:
"One of Burgundy’s most historical domaines, it was originally created in 1766, which makes it by far one of the region’s most established. Today, it is run by the pensive yet charming Philippe Billard who has been at its helm for multiple decades. He farms 10 hectares of vineyards which range from 15-65-years old and are mostly located within Pommard 1er Cru appellations such as Clos de Verger, Pezerolles and Rugiens-Bas.
Allen Meadows is a true fan of Philippe’s wines, firmly stating numerous times in his Burghound review, “Philippe Billard runs what is one of the most under-rated domaines in the entire Côte de Beaune. The wines are old school but not especially rustic or austere, and they are unapologetically built for long-term aging. I am often asked exactly which domaines do I put in my personal cellar; well, Billard is one of them.” Their vines are farmed as naturally as possible, only using vineyard treatments when absolutely necessary. Winemaking is understandably traditional, though all grapes are destemmed and sorted beforehand. They are then fermented in open vats with some temperature-control and aged in oak barrels, but only 25% or so are new. They are neither fined nor filtered before bottling.
As Philippe states, “I make wine like my grandfather did.” The resulting wines favour a more structured, less fruit-forward style that requires some cellaring but reveal stunning, layered character and soul. For those of you looking for straightforward, traditional Burgundy without all the bells and whistles of modern winemaking methods, Billard-Gonnet is for you." -Importer