93 Antonio Galloni - Vinous

" Once again, translucence and transparency are some of the main signatures in the 2013 Pinot Noir Emmaline Ann Vineyard. Orange peel, autumn leaves, rose water and a host of exotic spices lift from the glass in a weightless, gracious Pinot Noir that speaks to subtlety above all else. Interestingly, the Emmaline Ann is the wine in this range that is most similar across 2012 and 2013, which suggests the site has a strong personality that perhaps dominates over vintage.

Ross Cobb makes some of the most distinctive Pinot Noirs on the Sonoma Coast. The 2012s are a bit uneven across the board because of the reduction issues in some wines I wrote about last year. Additonal time in bottle has helped the reduction dissipate, which is, of course, a good sign, but the fruit in those wines remains a bit muted. The difference is striking where there are no reduction issues at all. The 2013s show less concentration and depth than the 2012s, and are also free of issues with reduction. Some of the 2013s taste like the fruit could have benefitted from more time on the vine without compromising Cobb's restrained style. Readers will not want to miss the new Chardonnay Mariani, which is terrific. Lastly, Cobb has moved on from his previous role as winemaker at Hirsch, and is now focused on his wines and those he makes for a handful of consulting clients, which is likely to be a big positive going forward."