92
Robert Parker - Robert Parker's Wine Advocate
The white-golden colored 2015 Muscadet Sèvre et Maine Sur Lie Les Gautronnières is very pure and reductive own the nose, but intense and concentrated in its clear, ripe and lovely aromatic fruit. Coming from green rocks and amphibolite soils, this is a vital and finesse-full, very delicate and creamy textured Melon de Bourgogne—of which I have the impression it received its creamy character, due to a more intense yeast contact (through bâttonage) and/or at least a part of malolactic fermentation. This creaminess makes this a very elegant and balanced wine that doesn't lack vibrancy or mineral tension at all, since this unique terroir is simply rocking all its wines. If it's rocking you as well, you have to find out. If you like funky Jazz music, you could love it. To me green colored stones or rocks are among the most fascinating terroirs for wine. These tend to be very reductive and need several years to open up, but their flintiness, finesse and uncompromisingly mineral character give a tension that I find amazing. Les Gautronnières is the first Muscadet I have tasted from such a terroir and it can surely rival the finest Rieslings from similar terroirs (i.e. from Prinz Salm in the Nahe/Germany). So I'll be cautious with my score. It's probably not the one you would give. But you have to accept that the wine still lingers on your palate, before you have found the answer to your question of whether you like it or not.