95 David Schildknecht - Robert Parker's Wine Advocate

Whereas the 1953 I tasted on the occasion of my most recent visit at Domaine Puig-Parahy was unusually old to have remained in tank, the 1978 Rancio tasted alongside had long since been put into barrel and in contact with the "mother" culture. There is however no lack of brightness, energy, and back-end grip here; in fact, the combination of volatile elements conveys a vivacious and refreshing sense of acidity. Candied lemon and orange rind; toasted nuts; caramel; white raisin, and chili peppers all accent a matrix suggestive of red raspberry liqueur and almost buttery in texture, even as it remains invigoratingly bright.