2019 Antoine Sunier MorgonGamay from France
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- 93 John Gilman - View from the Cellar
93 John Gilman - View from the Cellar
Antoine Sunier’s Morgon is also produced from sixty year-old vines, located in the lieu dit of Croix de Chevre (which is a section of the better known Grand Cras). His 2019 Morgon is an excellent wine on both the nose and palate, with the bouquet wafting from the glass in an expressive blend of cherries, cranberries, pomegranate, wood smoke, violets, cumin and a lovely base of soil that seems likely to turn beautifully autumnal as the years roll by. On the palate the wine is full-bodied, focused and tangy, with just a touch of natural wine wildness to its personality, a lovely core of fruit, fine minerality, suave tannins and a long and complex finish. This is an outstanding bottle of Morgon, that is quite tasty already, but will continue to improve with bottle age. I do not have a real sense of its potential longevity, due to that bit of natural wine wildness when it is first poured. But, there is a fine structural chassis and it seems that twenty years is at least likely.