94 Wine & Spirits

"Drought conditions followed by a cool harvest season produced a stunning version of Adi Badenhorst’s entry-level chenin. He took an unusual approach in 2018, harvesting the fruit over the course of 12 days and adding each day’s fruit to the already-fermenting musts. All of it was whole-bunch pressed, and one-quarter was fermented in old casks, the rest in tanks. Left on its lees for seven months with occasional stirring, the final wine is as deep and rich in flavor as its yellow hue predicts: It moves from waxy apple flavors to mango, wildflower honey and tangerine. It feels all of a piece, bright acidity holding the flavors taut and firm, a large-boned chenin fit for a crown roast of pork. All that for $16."

90 Neal Martin - Vinous Media

"The 2018 Secateurs Chenin Blanc, which Adi described as "the most fun wine to make," comes from 28 different parcels, of which 17 are over 50 years old, on granite soils in the Paardeberg Mountains. It has a well defined bouquet of lemon curd and light white flower aromas. It is slightly viscous on the entry, very pure with fine acidity, and honeyed toward the finish, to the point where it could almost be a dessert wine (I could imagine this pairing wonderfully with a hard cheese ). Given the price point, this is brilliant Chenin Blanc and an outstanding value. [Readers should note that there are three bottlings of this wine - this is the main one.] "