2019 Cherisey Puligny Montrachet 1er Cru "Les Chalumeaux"Chardonnay from France
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I tasted with Laurent Martelet up at the winery in the hamlet of Blagny, surrounded by some of the highest altitude vineyard between Meursault and Puligny-Montrachet. I always ...
- 91-93 Neal Martin - Vinous Media
91-93 Neal Martin - Vinous Media
The 2019 Puligny-Montrachet Les Chalumaux 1er Cru comes from the lowest-altitude parcels of the domaine, at around 250m, and is the first vineyard picked each year. It has an attractive nose featuring white peach, nectarine and light crushed stone aromas. The palate is well balanced with a pretty opening, suggestions of apricot and more white peach, a fine bead of acidity and hints of passion fruit developing toward the finish. A lovely Puligny.
I tasted with Laurent Martelet up at the winery in the hamlet of Blagny, surrounded by some of the highest altitude vineyard between Meursault and Puligny-Montrachet. I always have to pause and admire the panorama across to the Alps before broaching the wines. “We started the picking on 3 September until 14 September,” Martelet told me, making them one of the earliest to pick. “It is in the line of recent vintages in that the season was warm. It has actually improved the quality of vines. The vines learned from 2018. There are 200-metres difference in altitude between the Village Crus and Blagny and here the fruit tends to ripen later. We used to determine the harvest on sugar levels, but now it is on acidity levels. You have to pick single plots at different times according to different acidity levels, and you have to keep returning [to the same plot]. On the deep clay soils the vines do not suffer hydric stress, but where the soils are poor such as in Puligny, then that is more complicated, and stress can come quickly and reduce yields. For Pinot Noir it can be a catastrophe and yields can be as low as 11hl/ha. Chardonnay copes with the heat better. The evaporation of water concentrated the acid and the sugar, which did not happen in previous hot vintages such as 2003. The wines all received just 8% to 10% new oak. There was no acidification or chaptalization, and the wines will be bottled next spring. The pH is 2.98 in certain parcels with a correct maturity around 13.0°.” This was a small but excellent set of 2019s from Domaine Comtesse de Chérisey. These are generally taut, livewire Chardonnays so nervy that they seem to be plugged into the mains. As Martelet mentioned, the spate of warm summers has advantaged producers such as this, so that whereas once the challenge was to reach phenolic ripeness, nowadays their location on the upper contours means that they do not worry about potential over-ripeness. - Neal Martin, Vinous
91-93 - Neal Martin - Vinous Media
|Taste||apple, pear, peach, apricot, lemon, lime, orange, pineapple, kiwi, butter, cream and vanilla|
|Nose||apple, pear, peach, apricot, lemon, lime, orange, pineapple, kiwi, butter, cream and vanilla|