2013 Bodegas Ponce P.F. ManchuelaBobal from Spain
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"Manchuela, a lesser-known Spanish wine region that is inland from Valencia, specializes in the Bobal grape variety, which is known for its thick skins and rusticity. And whil...
- 95 James Suckling - Jamessuckling.com
95 James Suckling - Jamessuckling.com
"Impressive aromas of dark berry, dried fruits, figs and black pepper. Full-bodied, layered and beautiful. Lots of fruit that is dense and gorgeous. Made from four small parcels of old ungrafted bobal vines. Handmade. Drink now."
"Manchuela, a lesser-known Spanish wine region that is inland from Valencia, specializes in the Bobal grape variety, which is known for its thick skins and rusticity. And while there are very few defenders of this region and even fewer winemakers that are dedicated to this varietal, Juan Antonio Ponce stands alone as the leader of Manchuela and as the master of the Bobal grape.
Juan Antonio Ponce began his winery in 2005, at the age of 23. He works biodynamically in the vineyard, and in the winery he takes a natural approach, using low levels of sulfur dioxide. His philosophy is to make natural wines with wild yeast fermentation, to respect the local varietal Bobal and to express its terroir.
The winemaking process begins with hand harvesting. The bunches of grapes are then chilled to 8°C and fermented whole-bunch, with the stems, in a type of fermentation known as “remango,” which was once popular in Rioja. Juan Antonio Ponce worked as the right-hand man to Telmo Rodriguez at Cia de Vinos Telmo Rodrigues for 5 years. During this time he was in charge of winemaking, vineyard management, etc. His father, who owned some land in Manchuela, decided to start this project with him.
Juan Antonio Ponce stands alone as the leader of the Manchuela DO and the master of the region’s indigenous Bobal grape. Bodal has a thick skin and rugged en vaso vines that don’t require trellising or irrigation. As a result, the variety has historically been relegated to bulk production for blending. However, Ponce has managed to tame his vines to bring out the softer and more nuanced side of Bobal as grown on his family’s estate. This is especially true of the 3.5 ha of old pie Franco Bobal vines that remain ungrafted and unencumbered by phylloxera due to the sandy soils of this particular site. Ponce feels the Bodegas Ponce “P.f.” is exemplary of Bobal’s most nuanced form—and doubly so with the 2013 vintage highlighting the vineyard site most valued by such a singular producer." - Importer