93 Mark Squires - Robert Parker's Wine Advocate

The 2017 Curtimenta is all Alvarinho, aged for nine months in used, light-toast French oak. It comes in at 12.8% alcohol. This has been seen before. Let's check in. Dense but not quite as powerful as it initially showed, it has a sensual texture that caresses the palate and coats it rather well. There isn't a lot of zing and zest, but it still shows freshness. It's not at all ponderous, for all of the feeling of size that it projects. As it sits in the glass, the fruit rises up above the oak. The extra year in the bottle has allowed this to come together nicely. It presents as very full-bodied for this region, a big selling point. I might wish for a little more zest and intensity, though. Overall, this is relatively gentle yet still vigorous, beautiful to drink now. It does seem positioned to age very well, though. I don't think it's the best in the brand, but it is typically excellent, and this year is no slouch. This, by the way, is not a typical Vinho Verde—this needs a food pairing, and it can hold up to bigger foods. You've been warned.