92 Mark Squires - Robert Parker's Wine Advocate

The 2015 Alvarinho Contacto is all Alvarinho and comes in at 13% alcohol. It is dry and unoaked, sourced from vines averaging 15 years in age. If I wasn't quite as thrilled with the 2013 and 2014, this vintage is letting it all hang out. Richer than its Muros Antigos sibling, if you're wondering, this has mouth-coating fruit and beautiful structure. It tightens with air on the finish, showing fine tension. Give it some air and it demonstrates transparency and refinement, too. Its broad, classic flavors roll over the tongue. The fruit is delectable. It is a brilliant Contacto, perhaps the best yet. Admittedly, it was tasted very young, not too long after bottling. It has some questions to answer in the cellar, but the worst it might be is exceptional. It's also another Mendes bargain to buy by the case and sip on the porch this summer and for a few years to come. It has the stuffing to hold up to food, too, and it should age well.

Anselmo Mendes is one of the region's top names. These are made like real table wines--dry, no fizz. Just good expressions of fruit. At the lower end, the bargains are often remarkable, especially this year for the 2015 releases. Back up the truck and you'll be happy this summer and for a while. They tend to always exceed regional stereotypes for aging potential. On the other hand, market conditions do not always mirror what I see in the winery and there is no law that says you have to age them. Most drink great when they are young, too.