2017 Anselmo Mendes Parcela UnicaAlbarino/Alvarinho from Portugal
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- 93 Mark Squires - Robert Parker's Wine Advocate
93 Mark Squires - Robert Parker's Wine Advocate
"The 2017 Parcela Unica is an Alvarinho aged for nine months in new French oak (light toast). It comes in at 13% alcohol, with less than two grams of residual sugar & 6.5 grams per liter of total acidity. Like Curtimenta this year, this shows off its wood initially, but it comes around very well, particularly the next day. Both can be hard to read when young but for different reasons--the power of Curtimenta & the wood on this. The more aggressive wood treatment tends to make this the harder to read of the two, but it looks very fine. It is notably creamier, though. Also ripe & full-bodied, it demonstrates that its fruit can & will rise above the wood. In fact, it pulls in the wood rapidly as it airs & warms. Then, it lingers beautifully on the finish, dry, serious & intriguing. As it airs out & warms the next day, it becomes remarkably refined, showing off finesse I did not think it had. Suddenly, it seemed impeccably balanced & more sophisticated. Taste this blind & your first thought will not be "Vinho Verde." Still another day later, it was in top form, but I'd say I liked it best at about 24 hours open".