92 Wine & Spirits

"The Aulanier family traces their ownership of this historic 222-acre estate to 1767. Now a bird sanctuary and a parc naturel, the property includes 99 acres of melon de Bourgogne, the vines averaging 40 years old, planted on a dome-shaped hill of volcanic schist on the bank of the Sevre River near its confluence with the Maine. Fermented in concrete temperature-controlled vats without added yeast, this aged on the lees through the winter, producing a round, smoky wine with the kinetic power of the sea. It’s saline and savory, lasting on a caress of rich pear and apple flavor. This needs time in a decanter or a few years of bottle age to show its best."