94 Wine & Spirits

"Roland Velich blends this wine largely from Neckenmarkt, where the vines grow on steep slopes of schist and limestone, along with Lutzmannsburg, a warmer, flatter area of clay and limestone. The 2011 shows the ripeness of the vintage in a core of black cherry nectar, sweet and intense. But that's all the sweetness there is here; otherwise it’s a liquid expression of the rugged terrain, granite-hard and flinty in its mineral expression, with plenty of hillside herbals and spice to add detail and lift. Give it a swirl in a decanter and serve with roast duck."