94 John Gilman - View from the Cellar

"The old parcel of Bouchères has been let out to Dominique Lafon and Jean-Marc Roulot is now producing a Clos des Bouchères bottling, which again hails from a parcel once owned by Domaine Emmanuel. The 2011 Clos des Bouchères seems decidedly more elegant and mineral in character than the old bottling here, which was quite fruit-driven in personality in comparison to the other premier crus in the Roulot cellars. This is a great wine in the making, jumping from the glass in a lovely blend of apple, passion fruit, iodine, salty soil tones, almonds and vanillin oak. On the palate the wine is deep, full-bodied and racy, with a fine core, lovely cut and grip and lovely soil signature on the long and elegant finish. In terms of the salty, white soil tones on the backend here, this wine bears more than a passing resemblance to Genevrières. Fine, fine juice. 2020-2045+."