94 Wine & Spirits

"Anselmo Mendes, who has worked as a winemaking consultant in Vinho Verde and the Douro since 1992, began making his own wines in 1998. "Contacto" refers to skin contact, which he pushes in these grapes from riverside vineyards in Moncao and Melgaco. That contact includes a cold maceration prior to fermentation for 12 hours at 12 degrees C. In a lesser vintage, this wine can be youthfully tannic, but in 2012, the lusciousness of the fruit builds dynamism with the structure, the architecture of the wine holding its peach density like a national monument to alvarinho. This lasts with the floral notes of fresh cream, the smokiness of the grape skins and the sumptuous richness of the fruit. Built to age." (08/13)

92 Mark Squires - Robert Parker's Wine Advocate

"The 2012 Alvarinho Contacto comes in at 13% alcohol. This brand is fast becoming one of my very favorites from Mendes. It is usually a great intersection of quality and price. This is a wonderful follow-up to the very fine 2011. Take the power, finish and grip of its sibling, the very nice 2012 Alvarinho Muros Antigos reviewed this issue. Now, add yet a little more intensity, a full bodied feel and additional complexity. It results in an impressive wine, one that should age beautifully and have the stuffing to hold up well to many foods. Beautifully balanced as well, it is still tightly wound in its youth, precise, pure and focused. There is actually a lot more going on here than at first seems apparent. While never losing its balance, it showed, as it warmed into the 60s F (and THEN over several hours and THEN the next day in particular), what lurked underneath - transparency as well as some laser like bursts of acidity. It may have been at its best on Day 2 actually - and how many times have you heard that about Vinho Verde?--and at the end of the day at that, some 6 hours after the first taste. It likely will be better with a year or so of cellaring, even though it is certainly wonderful now. Stock up on this. Note: The "Contacto" is so named because it emphasizes prolonged skin contact. It is also a bit different in that it comes from a different terroir and soil type than Mendes' Muros Antigos Alvarinho - rolling stones rather than sandy. Drink now-2020." (04/13)